The first time I went to this fantastic Norweigan island was in 1994. I travelled with my old non-birding friend Magnus in my Fiesta, and it was not really a birdwatching trip. Now, 17 years later, I was back with some serious camera gear hoping to get some nice pics of the avian life on the island. I started, though, with a visit to Dovrefjell to see the wierd muskoxs that were introduced from Greenland at the beginning of the last century.